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	<title>Bali Photographer &#187; ir</title>
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	<description>Thoughts and Portfolio</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Mon, 14 Dec 2009 09:21:05 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>Infrared Photography &#8211; The Choices</title>
		<link>http://a-digi.com/bali-photographer/2009/11/infrared-photography-the-choices/</link>
		<comments>http://a-digi.com/bali-photographer/2009/11/infrared-photography-the-choices/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 07 Nov 2009 04:27:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>bali photographer</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Equipment]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[infrared]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[ir]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://a-digi.com/?p=52</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I have been interested with infrared photography for quite a while. A long while. A few years. I started it about two years ago with an experiment using Tian Ya, cheap Chinese brand believed to be compatible with Cokin 007. It did not take long until I decided that it did not work for me. [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have been interested with infrared photography for quite a while. A long while. A few years. I started it about two years ago with an experiment using Tian Ya, cheap Chinese brand believed to be compatible with Cokin 007. It did not take long until I decided that it did not work for me. Placed in front of the lens brought two significant consequences:</p>
<ol>
<li>Extremely long exposure was needed. Shoots took at least 20 seconds in the middle of bright sunny day. Tripod is inevitable, handheld is simply impossible.</li>
<li>Very dark, it was difficult to ensure desired composition whilst visual control of correct focus and metering were practically impossible. Metering had to be manual anyway whilst auto focusing worked fine.</li>
</ol>
<p>I decided that the only practically workable way is to have an ir-modified camera. By replacing the original hot mirror with certain optical recipe &#8211; or simply a piece of infrared filter glass &#8211; the camera can take infrared shots in normal way, no more dark view finder, no more slow exposure. The catch was that conversion is not as easy as replacing a filter. It needs professional with certain skill to do it. It means I had to have two cameras if I still wanted to shoot normal photos, which I did.<span id="more-52"></span></p>
<p><strong>Choosing The Camera</strong></p>
<p>I quickly ignore the thought to just modify my Canon 5D. I knew that a few people do modify 5D or even fancier camera. But I was not that rich. It was on experiment as well. So I decided to look for used smaller cameras, entry level DSLR. By specification I chose Canon 450D. But after the second thought, especially for financial reasons, I decided to go for <strong>Canon 400D</strong>.</p>
<p><strong>Choosing The Modificator</strong></p>
<p>Here in Indonesia there are a few infrared modificators, but on the top of those very small distinguished group were two names, Dibyo Gahari in Bandung and Harlim in Jakarta.I am in Bali so I have to transport this anyway. More than the fact that Harlim charges almost double Dibyo&#8217;s price, I slowly leart difference between the two by long researches and discussions with experienced infrared photographers in local photography forums.</p>
<p>Out of idealism, Harlim only willing to work for those who are serious in IR and therefore destroys original hot mirror. Camera manufacturers do not sell this part, which mean there is no way back. Dibyo returns the original hot mirror and willing to restore it at a separated cost, so if we later on find that infrared photography is not that hot, we can make the camera back into normal condition.</p>
<p>Furthermore Harlim calibrates his modification with certain lens. We will get the best result with that designated lens, but possibly not with other lenses. Dibyo makes his works universal. We can attach any lens and still get the same result quality.</p>
<p>I was certain then that Dibyo was the right way to go. But my mind was kept on contaminated with a logical question &#8220;if Harlim charges that much, limits lens compatibility, and destroys the original hot mirror, who does he is still getting many clients?&#8221; So I continued my reasearch until finally I have enough experienced people telling that cameras modified by Harlim gives significantly better details, so most hobbyist mostly shooting landscape went to Dibyo whilst pros and those who also shoot models went to Harlim.</p>
<p>After seeing enough evidences, comparing results between the two, i was clear that I was going for <strong>Harlim</strong>.</p>
<p><strong>Choosing Infrared Type</strong></p>
<p>By cutting different light wavelength both Dibyo and Harlim has various types to choose for. Dibyo has Full IR, Semi IR, Goldie IR, and later on also introduced Travel IR and Prewed IR for those who do not want to get IR photos without having to do digital post processing. Harlim had V3, V5, and V7. People matched their version into following equality: V3 = Full IR, V5 = Goldie IR, V7 = Semi IR.</p>
<p>As I have decided to go Harlim&#8217;s way, I was only looking to three choice, V3, V7, V5 = Full, Semi, Goldie. My research shows two extreme ends. V3 has highest demand of digital post processing but gives the widest possibility for creative expression, V5 requires the least digital post processing and correspondingly the least creative possibilities, V7 is somewhere in between.</p>
<p>I wanted a canvas to express myself. I did not really want people to like my works. For a common artistic quality I can still shoot normal photos. I realized the challenge that I had to learn a lot in digital post processing, but I am not allergic to learning, so I was not seeing any problem there. I am going for <strong>V3</strong>, <strong>Full IR</strong>.</p>
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